Now that we have a replacement in the Senate for Barack Obama from Illinois who will be the replacement for Hillary in New York? In site of claims that he’s still undecided, Gov. Paterson is “certain” to pick Caroline Kennedy to replace Hillary Rodham Clinton in the US Senate, several unhappy contenders for the job have told friends and associates in recent
The contenders are basing their conclusions on the view that Paterson, after nearly two months of indecision, would “greatly embarrass” and “entirely humiliate” Kennedy, anger her prominent political family and even offend President-elect Barack Obama by picking someone other than President John F. Kennedy’s daughter. Who would want to do that? But in politics anything can happen as the recent Illinois debacle has proven.
As for the governor’s claim to be weighing a last-minute finalist, the contenders agree with a close Paterson friend who said, “It’s clear David is just trying to play mind games with the press.” Some of the contenders warned, however, that the unelected Paterson, who must face the voters next year, could face a serious backlash from Democratic activists by choosing Kennedy, whose standing with the public, and with Democrats in particular, has been sliding in recent weeks.
So, is this more about Paterson’s election than Kennedy’s appointment?
US Rep. Carolyn Maloney of Manhattan, a would-be Clinton replacement who is backed by several women’s organizations, was the most publicly adamant in saying the fix was in, citing a scenario – first outlined in last week’s Village Voice – under which Paterson, in a deal with Mayor Bloomberg, a Kennedy friend, selects Kennedy in exchange for help for his own election bid next year. Another potential candidate believes that Kennedy would get the job because Attorney General Andrew Cuomo failed to line up the right replacement at the AG’s office.
A third potential candidate claimed that Paterson’s repeated contention that there is no front-runner is “baloney. It’s been a done deal from the start. David goes with Caroline with the understanding that Caroline, and her family and its resources, go with David next year. This stuff with Paterson saying he’s looking at other people is a crock,” the source continued.
Politics is so much fun!
Chicago, Arlington House, Sunday, October 23, 2005, 6:25 am
After being appropriately prepped as a result of our visit to the Chicago Cultural Center we decided to head off yesterday to visit the Pullman Historic District, a planned industrial and residential community dating back to the 1880s, on Chicago’s South Side.
In order to get there we took the red line all the way to the end and then connected onto the 111 bus. What was very interesting to note was that the population on Chicago’s south side is predominantly black, as much of the black population from the US South had migrated northwards after the 2nd World War. Actually Chicago was known as one of the most racially segregated cities, and today, with the demolition of many of the bleak urban housing projects, the city is attempting to create more integration between its black and white population.
The Pullman Historic District is the manifestation of a very interesting social experiment: It was built between 1880 and 1884 as a planned model industrial town by George M. Pullman for the Pullman Palace Car Company. George Pullman (1831 to 1897) arrived on the scene with a design for the Pullman sleeping carriage which he originally developed to carry the dead body of Abraham Lincoln to his funeral. As a result the Pullman Sleeping Car Company was established and a whole town was built around the business and named after its originator.
We went to the Visitor Center and saw an 18-minute movie that described George Pullman and his ambitious plans for his development of a model community, a total environment, that he intended to be superior to that available to the working class elsewhere. By so doing, he hoped to avoid strikes, attract the most skilled workers and attain greater productivity as a result of the better health and spirit of his employees.
To achieve his vision, George Pullman hired Solon S. Beaman, landscape architect Nathan F. Barrett and civil engineer, Benzette Williams. The town was constructed by Pullman employees, using local red clay from Lake Calumet and component parts that were produced in the Pullman factory. This project is one of the first examples of industrial technology and mass production in large-scale housing. The town was a complete planned community and included schools, a library and hotel all run by the company.
Pullman’s large Arcade building (now demolished and the present location of the Visitor Center) featured a restaurant, a bank, a library, a post office, a theater, and numerous shops. It was a forerunner of the modern shopping center. The town was completely self-contained. Pullman residents enjoyed the manmade Lake Vista and plenty of parks and promenades, features typically missing from Chicago’s working-class neighbourhoods.
The town of Pullman was a model of financial efficiency. Pullman demanded that the company return an 8-percent profit and the town return a 6-percent profit. A huge engine pumped sewage from the town to a nearby Pullman-owned farm, where it was used as fertilizer for produce that would be sold back in the town.
George Pullman maintained ultimate control over the town, even restricting workers’ access to alcohol, as the Hotel Florence only sold alcohol to out-of-town visitors. Resentment towards this paternalistic despot started to build. Misfortune struck with the decline of the Pullman car’s success which forced George to slash wages. Workers responded with a strike, fuelled by Pullman’s failure to reduce grocery costs and rent, but George simply fired them. The situation deteriorated as railway workers refused to handle Pullman cars and President Cleveland had to intervene, sending federal troops to the scene. The workers were forced to sign documentation declaring that they wouldn’t join a union.
Although the strike collapsed, George Pullman’s model for handling the “labour problem” had failed. Pullman had prided himself on his paternalistic approach with his workers, and he could not see how his heavy-handed methods had resulted in this worker rebellion. Criticized and scorned, Pullman died a bitter man in 1897.
In 1898, the Illinois Supreme Court ordered the Pullman Company to sell the non-industrial land in the neighborhood to its inhabitants, determining that the Pullman Palace Car Company did not have the proper authority to provide nonmanufacturing services such as renting property. Finally, residents could buy their homes.
Robert T. Lincoln, the son of President Lincoln, became head of the company after Pullman’s death and simplified its name to the Pullman Company. The Pullman Company continued to produce its famous cars at 111th Street and Cottage Grove Avenue. But with the explosion of automobile ownership, rail passenger traffic went into rapid decline. In 1957, Pullman Incorporated closed its plant in the neighborhood.
Only three years later, the city of Chicago included Pullman on a list of “blighted and deteriorating areas” that required clearance and redevelopment. Residents responded by forming the Pullman Civic Organization and began working to gain landmark status. The Historic Pullman Foundation, which formed in 1973, helps ensure the area’s preservation and restoration by sponsoring various events such as neighborhood walking tours, annual house tours, Sunday brunch at the Florence Hotel, and presentations at the Pullman Visitor Center.
In many ways the housing development was ahead of its time. Each building, most of them townhouses, had gas and water, complete sanitary facilities and abundant quantities of sunlight and fresh air, which was a rarity at that time, when the working class was mostly housed in squalid tenements. Originally the town of Pullman housed about 12,000 people while today it still has a population of about 2,000, with an ethnically and economically mixed background.
Other famous buildings on the Pullman grounds include the Hotel Florence, named after Pullman’s favourite daughter. It opened in 1881 as a hospitality showcase for visitors to George Pullman’s perfect town and originally had 50 rooms, a dining room, a billiard room, a parlor and the only bar in Pullman. The Historic Pullman Foundation managed to save the hotel from demolition and today the hotel is closed to the public while it is undergoing a capital improvement program to restore it for use with the State Historic Site.
The Pullman Clock Tower and Administration Building was built in 1880 for the executive offices of the Pullman Palace Car Company, at the time one of the most beautiful industrial complexes in the United States. In 1998 the Clock Tower and Administration Building were seriously damaged by a fire set by an arsonist. Since then the building has been stabilized and the restored Clock Tower was put back on just a few days before our visit. Future use of the site is currently being debated by a task force institute by Chicago Mayor Daley and Illinois Governor Ryan.
Another interesting building located on the Pullman Historic District is the Queen Anne-style Market Hall which was built in 1881. The Market provided a venue for fresh fruits, meats and other goods. The original market was destroyed by fire in 1892 and a new market was built on the existing foundation. The market is surrounded by four colonnaded circular apartment buildings that were built with the new Market Hall in 1893. Unfortunately the Market Hall Building was destroyed by fire in 1973 and today it awaits restoration.
The Greenstone Church, located centrally in the Pullman Historic District, has an exterior facade of serpentine stone quarried in Pennsylvania. The sanctuary is unchanged with the exception of the chancel arrangements. All of the cherry wood is original. Today the church is still occupied by a Methodist congregation.
The visit to the Pullman Historic District was very interesting. It taught us about a different time of ultimate laissez-faire capitalism, industrial growth and immigration, labour unrest, urban planning, architectur
e and the ultimate failure of a rather unique social experiment.
We had reconnoitered another spot about which we were told at Quidi Vidi Lake, on the East end of town. There are many RVs parked here anticipating next weeks regatta on the lake. All day two man sculls, 4+1s and 6+1s were practicing for next weeks contest. A hiking path winds around the lake and is a popular spot for the locals. St. John’s is noted for its network of hiking trails. From the Quidi Vidi trail four other ones branch out into the rest of the city.
We took a walking tour of the Eastern Part of the city. This is where many of the rich people built their homes after the numerous fires in the 19th century, which leveled the lower dock portion of the city. Many of the homes are in the Queen Anne and late Empire Style, with later Victorian thrown in for good measure.
The tour took us to the Colonial House, which held the legislature and Supreme Court for the country of Newfoundland from 1850 to 1959. They moved to the Confederation building then. The building now houses the Provincial Archives.
We crossed the street and were invited to attend the garden party at the Government House, the home of the Lieutenant Governor of the Province. We were the delegation from the esteemed state of Illinois. The Royal Regiment of Foot and the 27th Company- 2nd Battalion Royal regiment of Artillery were present in style. The drum and fife corps was augmented by the royal provincial military band, which played during the party. Tea, lemonade and biscuits were served to all of the invited guests.
Thursday, July 31, 2003
Drove to Signal Hill, overlooking the harbor and the sea. We looked at the exhibits at the interpretation center, which traced the history of the area from before John Cabot through the battle of the Somme on July 1, 1917, where almost an entire generation of young Newfoundlanders were lost in one day.
At 11:00 was the tattoo, a 1795 reenactment of traditional military activities, performed by the Royal Newfoundland Regiment of Foot and the 27th Company – 2nd Battalion Royal Regiment of Artillery. Comprised of High School students the corps consists of drum and fife band, the Regiment of Foot and the artillery regiment. They demonstrate the purpose of marching drills which were used in actual combat, the firing of muskets from different formations, and the use of the howitzer and cannon in battle. The exercise was quite informative and entertaining.
Talking with the historian for the group after the performance we asked about the Germans and W.W.II. He said that it was a possibility. Many ships were sunk in the North Atlantic and bodies were washed ashore along the coast. Among the bodies, or parts of them, would have been a certain number of German sailors. Since their identities were unknown the citizens would hold services and give them a Christian burial. This is definitely a plausible explanation and still a marvelous example of Newfoundlander hospitality.
At 2:00 we were scheduled for a tour of Signal Hill. So we went to the Johnson GeoCenter, just down the hill. Constructed in the hill, the exhibits are underground revealing the actual rock of Signal Hill. Some of the oldest rocks in the world have been found in Labrador. One hands-on exhibit is of a rock almost 4 billion years old. We had to leave early because of our tour appointment, but returned later to finish the exhibits.
On Signal Hill, we met Billy, our ranger tour guide. Only two of us were in the tour, even though many other people were on the hill too. He showed us around the hill for over an hour and a half. Signal Hill was used for many purposes, barracks, hospital, prison, etc. Its primary use was for signaling the incoming ships into the harbor. The signal was relayed from Cape Spear, the Eastern most point in North America, by hoisting the ship’s colors. This was then observed by the merchants and townsfolk who readied themselves for the ship. In 1901 Marconi sent and received the first transatlantic wireless signal from Europe, a series of three dots. He used an aerial attached to a kite. The cable companies were not too pleased with his achievement, because they had just laid the transatlantic cable at great cost. How he did this was revealed twenty years later, bouncing the signal off the ionosphere. This changed communications forever and helped marine communications.
Queen Victoria laid the cornerstone for Cabot Tower in 1897, the 400th anniversary of his discovery. One other interesting fact is that the Basilica of St. John the Baptist towers line up with the narrows, the entrance to St. John’s harbor. By lining the masts to a series of lanterns from the tower, the ships were able to navigate the Narrows without incident. This was done until recent times, when the Narrows were dredged for easier access. During W.W.II a large net was hung across the narrows from Fort Amherst to Signal Hill to keep out the German U-boats and protect St. John’s shipping. The Germans, however, had hired many ship captains who sailed from Bell Island, a short distance away. They were familiar with the waters and dangers in the area. So they were able to circumvent the net.
Friday, August 1, 2003
Did some necessary laundry on Merry Meeting Street and other chores today. Merry Meeting Street is so named because it is at the top of the hill overlooking the harbor. People would meet there to chat and watch for ships entering he harbor.
We are set to stay at Quidi Vidi Lake until next Thursday and watch the longest running sporting event in North America, the 185th consecutive St. John’s Royal Regatta. From dawn to dusk, the crews have been practicing. We are looking forward to the race.
In the evening, we walked to Bannerman Park, the site of the St. John’s Folk Festival, which began today and extends throughout the weekend. Also on tap this weekend is the George Street Festival, which runs through Tuesday night. The groups here have more of a rock rhythm.
Hi again for the third installment.
On Saturday, August 02, 2003 we took the walking tour of the old downtown of St. John’s Most of the original buildings have been destroyed because of massive fires in 1846 and 1892. The streets rise up from the harbor via a steep hill, typical of most port towns. At the top of the hill is Merry Meeting Street, where young people would congregate and yet keep a look out for any ships entering the harbor. Two of the many ships docked at the harbor today were a French luxurious cruise ship with a passenger list of only ninety people, whose itinerary was the Arctic circle and the naturalist sites there. The other ship was a Russian trawler in the harbor for engine repairs. They have been there over a month. Knowing how much the Newfoundlanders regard foreign factory ships destroying the Grand Banks fisheries, the ship might be there for many more months. The crew did not seem to be too displeased, sunning themselves on deck.
Walked down George Street, home of the George Street Music Festival. The street is a pub crawler’s paradise. Just about every establishment on the street is a pub, many with Celtic names. Food is also available, but nothing else, except entertainment at night. Went into the Anglican Cathedral, the exterior surviving the fire, but the interior being gutted. Their small museum has artifacts from the fire, including bent church keys, charred beams, and a mummified church mouse (really a rat). The services are of the High Church variety, with Matins held before Eucharist and Evensong (Vespers) daily and Solemn Vespers on Sunday. They have a photo in their museum of the crew who worked on the repairs of the Cathedral. One of the men was killed during the project. Mysteriously he appears as a translucent person the photo. You can see the rest of the background through him: a ghostly specter. Over 50 members of the Cathedral community who died in the World Wars are also honored with a plaque near the altar.
Drove through the English Gardens of Bowring Park. A wedding was
in process that day. The park has many statuary, including a replica of Peter Pan and one dedicated to the Newfoundlander Fighting Man. Cascades, and winding pathways make this a bucolic focal point for the community.
After naps we met up with our friends Andre and Pamela and drove to the George Street Festival. Most of the bands were run of the mill. The headliners were High Holy Days from Thunder Bay, ON and I Mother Earth, a local group making its name nationally. The crowd was sparse until I Mother Earth came on stage. From every direction people came into the square, at least five thousand strong. The lead singer was from St. John’s and it was home coming for the local hero. The music was heavy rock accompanied by a light show. The audience was really into the music, complete with mosh pit. The lead singer even entered the pit for one of his songs and was raised on high. He was in no fear of injury, because these were his friends.
After the concert, about 11:00 the 5,00 plus crammed into the many pubs along the street. The party continued. The festival will go on for three more nights. We plan to be there Tuesday night for the Kitchen Party.
Had Ice Cream at the famous Moo Moos .
Monday, August 04, 2003
We treated ourselves to Ches’s Famous Fi And Chi (fish and chips). The were good, but not as good as the Friendly Fisherman’s Café in Rose Blanche. (Fortunately not nearly so hearty a serving either.)
We visited the Quidi Vidi Brewery. A tour had just left. We got some labels for Don, our Master Brewer, of their products. At Christmas they produce a Mummers Ale, in which they put orange rinds, cloves and other spices into the mash, giving it a special flavor. A Mummer is a British tradition during the Twelve Days of Christmas, where people dress in costumes and are masked. They go from house to house to have their tankards filled after they entertain and the hosts try to guess their identities In Philadelphia, PA the mummers parade is an annual event on News Years Day.
Down the road is the Quidi Vidi Battery, built by the French, when they attacked St. John’s during the Seven Days War. It is very small, but adequately protects the cove to Quidi Vidi from an attack from the sea.
Hiked the Virginia River trail, two Kilometers each way. The trail parallels the Virginia River as it cascades down from the hill on which Fort Pepperrell was built in W.W.II for the Americans. Now it is called Pleasantville. A Texan designed the fort and left his imprint: the streets form the outline of a ten gallon hat and have names like Churchill and Roosevelt.
We headed for George Street. Tonight we were going to get Screeched, i.e..become honorary Newfoundlanders. Screech is what one does after drinking the dregs of the dark molasses rum in the olden days. After one month here we feel the blood of the island coursing through our veins. At Trapper John’s Museum and Pub we were properly screeched: drank screech (Newfoundland rum straight, kissed the puffin, or cod, and repeated the pledge.
Now we could enjoy the Kitchen Party. A Kitchen Party is a Newfoundland tradition where anything goes, just as in the kitchen at home. Tonight was Newfoundland and Celtic night. Some of the groups were Banshee, six Royal Newfoundlander Policemen, and Celtae, where the men wore kilts and the girl fiddler wore slacks. She really started to get into the music half way through the set. Then came the Navigators, whom we had previously heard. The headliners were Shanneyganock, which had the audience going wild with their Newfie and Celtic songs and their upbeat tempos from the fiddler, drummer, bass and rhythm guitars, and squeeze box player. More people were at the Kitchen Party than at Saturday’s concert.
Wednesday, August 06, 2003
Today is a beautiful sunny day for the running of the 185th consecutive St. John’s Regatta. This is the only major festival held between a prison and a cemetery. The shells, i.e., boats, are the old British fixed-seat ones, unlike the Olympics shells where the sets move with the legs. There are twenty-three qualifying races, the men rowing a 2.450 kilometer course , turning around a buoy and then returning to the finish line. Most do it in under ten minutes. The women do ½ the course in under six minutes. This year OZFM, a local radio station woman’s crew won again. They set a new course record of under 5:00 minutes. Newfoundland Power won the men’s competition.
The competition is not just about the racing. It is a festival. A minimum of 50,000 people congregated around the pond, visiting the concession booths, eating their way along the trail and waiting for the children to play on the different rides. The atmosphere was one of joy. Bands played, crowds stood or sat on the banks cheering on their favorite teams, tailgate parties were set up including jig dinners. A jig dinner is like a New England Broiled dinner. It comprises salted beef or pork and then different vegetables are thrown into the pot, making quite a stew.
Thursday, August 07, 2003
Woke up this morning and most of the parking lot was cleared, a different sight from yesterday. We will be moving on too, having enjoyed our stay at St. John’s. Will we return? The answer is, “Yes,” someday, and this time in less than a 40 years.